Advanced Assembly


These instructions will show you how to take all of the basic components that make up the basic Hack-E-Bot kit and assemble them. When finished, you will have all of the pre-assembled parts of the Hack-E-Bot ready for any child to snap together using the lessons found at My.HackEBot.com.

Required tools

  • Soldering iron
  • Solder
  • Small phillips head screwdriver.
  • Wire stripper
  • Needle nose pliers
  • Hot Glue Gun

 

Suggested tools

 

Basic Robot Instructions

  1. Joining the servos

    The two servos need to be connected to each other so that they use a common power and ground wire. New male header pins will also be added to the two orange servo control wires, red common power wire, and the brown common ground wire.

    You will need:

    • 2 x Servos
    • Wire Cutter/Stripper
    • Soldering Iron
    • Solder
    • 1 x Red Heat Shrink
    • 1 x Clear Heat Shrink

    1
    Use the Wire Cutter to cut off the 3 pin connector at the end of each servo wire.
    2

    Gently separate the three wires from each other.

    Pinch the Brown and Orange wire ends, then pull the Red wire end down to separate all three wires at once.

    3

    Cut the Brown and Red wires about 1 inch away from were they exit the servo.

    Note: You can use the last digit of your thumb, which is about 1 inch long, to figure out were to cut the wires.

    4
    Strip the ends of each newly cut wires, then twist the ends so they stay together.
    5

    Take the other servo and measure about 1 inch from were the Brown and Red wires exit the servo.

    You will want to clamp the Wire Stripper around the wires at the measured point.

    Gently pull the Wire Stripper away from the servo so that it cuts a small notch in the wire casing.
    6

    Pinch the wire gently were the notch was cut and pull the wire casing back.

    This should expose the wire at the 1 inch mark, but leave the rest of the wire in tact and insulated.

    7

    Twist the wires so they stay nice and neat.

    Now the Brown and Red wires should look like the image.

    8
    Take shortened red wire from the other servo and twist the stripped end around the exposed section of the other servo, then solder the connection together.

    Repeat this possess with the Brown wires.

    Be sure that both wires are securely joined so that they make a good electrical connection.

    9
    Take the Red Heat Shrink and slide it down the Red wire and over the solder connection that you made.

    Apply heat to the Red Heat Shrink so that it secures itself around the solder connection.

    Note: If you do not have a heat gun, you can use a butane lighter or hold the Heat Shrink over your Solder Iron to shrink it.

    10
    Take the Clear Heat Shrink and slide it down the Brown and Red wires and over the solder connection and the Red Heat Shrink.
    11
    Apply heat to the Clear Heat Shrink so that it secures itself around the solder connection and the Red wires.
  2. Add Male Headers to Srevo Wires

    Header pins and housings should be placed at the end of the 4 servo wires.

    You will need:

    • 4 x Male Crimp Pins
    • Wire Stripper
    • Needle Nose Pliers or a Crimping Tool
    • 4 x Connector Housings 1 x 1

    1
    Use the Wire Stripper to remove a small piece of the wire casing from each of the 4 servo wires. Then twist the wire ends to keep things nice and straight.
    2
    Use the Crimping tool or Needle Nose Pliers to attach a Male Crimp pin to the end of each wire. Be sure that the exposed wire is secured under the middle flaps and the wire holder flaps hold the wire casing securely. For help with installing Crimp Pins, have a look at the following videos.

    Installing Crimp Pins with Needle Nose Pliers

    Installing Crimp Pins with a Crimping Tool

     
    3
    Place a 1x1 Connector Housing onto the end of each servo wire. For help with installing Connector Housings, have a look at the following video.

    Installing a Connector Housing

  3. Attach Servo Horn to Wheels

    A Servo Horn will need to be attached to the wheels so that they can be securely fastened to the servos when the kit is fully assembled. You will need:

    • 2 x Servo Horns (X shaped)
    • 2 x Hack-E-Bot Wheels
    • 4 x Self Tapping Servo Screws
    • A Small Phillips Head Screwdriver

    1
    Screw the Self Tapping Servo Screws into the back side of the Servo Horns so that the point of the screw barely comes out of the other side. Though there are 4 posts on the Servo Horn, we will only use two posts as shown in the photo.
    2
    The Hack-E-Bot Wheels have two sides to them. Place the servo horn on the side that dose not have a recessed circle in it. The screws should line up with 2 of the 4 holes in the wheel.
    3
    Slowly, but forcefully screw the Self Tapping Servo Screws in as far as they will easily go. When the screws are hard to turn and the Servo Horn posts are bending slightly, you are done.
    4
    Repeat this process for the other wheel.
  4. Place Rubber Tires Onto Wheels

    To add traction to the wheels you will want to install the rubber tire bands. These are made from a bicycle inner tube that has been cut to make many 1/2 inch traction tires. You will need:

    • 2 x Hack-E-Bot Wheels
    • 2 x Traction Tires

    1
    Stretch out the Traction Tires as much as possible to make it easier to install them.
    2
    While stretching out one Traction Tire, push a wheel into the center of the tire.
    3
    Pull the rest of the tire over the wheel so that it stretches all the way around.
    4
    Once installed, august the tire so that it sits evenly on the wheel. Repeat these steps for the other wheel.
  5. Add Male Headers to Battery box

    Like the Servos, the Battery box will need to have Male Crimp pins added to the Red and Black wires. These wires are already stripped and ready to have the pins installed. You will need:

    • 2 x Male Crimp Pins
    • Needle Nose Pliers or a Crimping Tool
    • 2 x Connector Housings 1 x 1

    1

    Use the Crimping tool or Needle Nose Pliers to attach a Male Crimp pin to the end of each wire.

    Be sure that the exposed wire is secured under the middle flaps and the wire holder flaps hold the wire casing securely.

    For help with installing Crimp Pins, have a look at the following videos.

    Installing Crimp Pins with Needle Nose Pliers

    Installing Crimp Pins with a Crimping Tool

    2

    Place a 1x1 Connector Housing onto the end of each wire.

    For help with installing Connector Housings, have a look at the following video.

    Installing a Connector Housing

  6. Assemble the Sonar Sensor Wire Harness

    Now we will make a wiring harness for the sonar to easily connect with. These wires already have 1 Male and 1 Female Crimp pin installed on the ends. You will need:

    • 1 x Black Wire 6"
    • 1 x Red Wire 6"
    • 1 x Green Wire 6"
    • 1 x Blue Wire 6"
    • 1 x Connector Housings 4 x 1
    • 4 x Connector Housings 1 x 1

    1
    Place a 1x1 Connector Housing onto the end of each wire with a Male Crimp pin. For help with installing Connector Housings, have a look at the following video.

    Installing a Connector Housing

    2
    Connect the Femail ends of each wire into the 4x1 Connector Housing in the following order: Red, Blue, Green, then Black.
  7. Solder Power Wire and Header Pins Onto the Trinket Pro

    The brain of your robot will be the Trinket Pro. This chip comes with two strips of header pins that will need to be attached along with the two shorter wires for the power connection. The reason we are installing power wires, instead of just soldering on the two extra header pins, is so that people can easily see what goes to power and what goes to ground. I have witnessed many inexperienced people burn up chips because they connected them the wrong way. You will need:

    • 1 x Trinket Pro with the included Header pins
    • 1 x Red Wire 3"
    • 1 x Black Wire 3"
    • 2 x Connector Housings 1 x 1
    • Soldering Iron
    • Solder
    • Wire Stripper
    • 1 x Breadboard

    1
    Measure our the number of Header pins you will need by fitting one end into the last through-hole on the left side of the Trinket Pro. Firmly push the extra Header pins to the side so that they snap off.
    2
    You should now have every hole on the left side filled with the Header pins.
    3
    Do the same for the right side of the Trinket Pro, but leave the top 2 through-holes, labeled BAT+ and G, empty.
    4
    While holding the Header pins in position, place the Trinket Pro over the Breadboard so that each pin lines up with a hole.
    5
    Gently, but firmly, press the center of the Trinket Pro into the breadboard so that it sits nice and level. This will keep everything square and level while you solder the pins into place.
    6
    Carefully solder each of the Header pins into place. Be sure to let the Trinket Pro cool down a bit between soldering the pins. If you have never soldered a chip like the Trinket Pro before, watch this video first: Note: Integrated circuit boards, like the Trinket Pro, contain parts that can not handle high heat for very long. Take your time and feel the Trinket Pro with your fingers from time to time so you can judge how hot things are. If it is to hot to touch, let things cool down before continuing.
    7
    Strip the ends off of the Red and Black wires, then twist each of them so that they stay straight. Note: These wires do have a Male Crimp pin on one side and a cut end on the other. Do not cut the Crimp pin off.
    8
    Use the Soldering Iron to place a small amount of Solder on the end of each wire. This is known as "tinning" the wire and it will make soldering the wires to the Trinket Pro easy.
    9
    Solder the Black wire to the through-hole labeled G and the Red wire to the BAT+ through-hole.
    10
    Place a 1x1 Connector Housing onto the end of each wire. For help with installing Connector Housings, have a look at the following video.

    Installing a Connector Housing

  8. Upload the Object avoidance program onto the Trinket Pro

    This is an optional step, but you may want to pre-program the Trinket Pro so that the robot will work without having to worry about program or driver installations in the beginning. We typically start with the Object avoidance program since that dose a good job at getting kids interested in learning more about the robot. However, you can pre-install whatever program you like onto the chips. You will need:

    • 1 x Trinket Pro
    • 1 x Micro USB cable
    • The Adafruit version of the Arduino IDE
    • The Hack-E-Bot Object Avoidance Library

    1
    Install the Arduino IDE as instructed.
    2
    Install the Hack-E-Bot Libraries as instructed.
    3
    More steps to come.
  9. Glue the Servo Mountings Together

    Along with the Servo Holders, there are two small rectangles that provide a flat surface for the Battery Box to rest on. These parts will need to be glued together. You will need:

    • 2 x Servo Holders
    • 2 x Battery Platforms
    • Acrylic Cement, Hot Glue Gun, or some other type of strong adhesive.

    1
    Place one of the Battery Platforms at the near the end of the Servo Holder.
    2
    Glue this piece into place at as close to a right angel as possible. Note: If your chassis parts were cut using a laser cutter, the edge of each part will slightly off from a 90° angle.
    3
    Repeat this process with the other Servo Holder, but on the opposite side. This should give you 2 Servo Mounts that are mirrored images of each other.
  10. Add Velcro To The Battery Box and Servo Mountings

    This will keep the Battery Box in place while allowing it to be easily removed. You will need:

    • 1 x Velcro pad (both sides)
    • 1 x Battery Box
    • 2 x Servo Mountings
    • 1 x Hack-E-Bot Lower Disk
    • Scissors

    1
    Cut the Velcro pads in half. Note: If the two sides of the Velcro pad are not stuck together, stick them to each other so that the get cut evenly.
    2
    Place the Servo Mountings into the Hack-E-Bot Lower Disk. This will ensure that things line up correctly.
    3
    Peel off the protective backing from the soft side of the Velcro pads.
    4
    Adhere the exposed backing of the pads to the rectangular tab sticking out from the Servo Mountings. They should cover most of the tap.
    5
    With the hook side of the Velcro attached to the soft side, peel off the protective backing.
    6
    Line the Battery Box up with the Servo Mountings and Hack-E-Bot Lower Disk so that the power switch is accessible through the square hole in the back of the Hack-E-Bot Lower Disk.
    7
    Seat the Batter Bot into the two feet of the Servo Mountings, then rotate the Battery Box down until them stick to the top of the Velcro pads. Press firmly to ensure that the Velcro adheres to the Battery Box.
    8
    Carefully pull the Velcro pads apart, then press to firmly adhere both sides to the Battery Box and the Servo Mountings.
  11. Attach The Breadboard to the Top Disk

    The Breadboard makes it easy to connect everything together. If you would rather use a Raspberry Pi, or other large chip, you can skip this step and use the mounting holes that are pre-cut into the Hack-E-Bot Top Disk. You will need:

    • 1 x Breadboard
    • 1 x  Hack-E-Bot Top Disk

    1
    Peel off the protective layer from the bottom of the Breadboard.
    2
    Line the Breadboard up with the rectangular outline on the Hack-E-Bot Top Disk so that the flattest side is in the front. This will ensure that the small tabs on the Breadboard sides do not block the small rectangular cutout near the front of the Hack-E-Bot Top Disk.
    3
    Firmly press the Breadboard down onto the Hack-E-Bot Top Disk so that it securely adheres to it.
  12. Hot Glue the Sonar Sensor Wire Harness to the Top Disk

  13. Attach the Ball Wheel to the Bottom Disk

 

 Line Trace Sensor Assembly

  1. Solder Header Pins onto Line Sensor
  2. Attach the Spacer screws to the Sensor
  3. Assemble the Line Sensor Wire Harness